Trip Report: Finding the Bluffs at Hercules Glades

We love campsites with spectacular views, who doesn’t? Looking at the maps and Google Earth, we hoped we’d managed to find a fantastic camping spot on top of a set of 260 ft. high bluffs overlooking Beaver Creek, in Hercules Glades Wilderness. We just needed to get there and check it out.

With Springfield Schools out on Friday we decided to take advantage of the long weekend and go on our first backpacking trip in a long while. We’ve spent so much time tied to our desks over the past few months that it seemed like we’d never get away again, let alone check out the bluffs we’d found.

We are out of condition so we planned for a modest hike with opportunities to explore, map some trails we’ve not hiked before, and spend some time sitting around doing nothing for a while.

View of Beaver Creek from the top of the Bluffs - Hercules Glades Wilderness

View of Beaver Creek from the top of the Bluffs – Hercules Glades Wilderness

We’d found the spot while studying the Hercules Glades topo maps several months ago. We noticed a set of bluffs by Beaver Creek on the western side of the wilderness.

Topo Map showing the Devil's Den (West) Trail and the western end of the Pilot's Trail

Topo Map showing the Devil’s Den (West) Trail and the western end of the Pilot’s Trail

Checking on Google Earth the bluffs looked to be quite spectacular and they offered the chance of some great views. They also looked a fair way from the marked trail, which is good, because it meant the area probably wasn’t visited much. Finally the area at the top of the bluff looked flat enough to offer some good campsites.

Google Earth View of the Bluff - Lower Pilot Knob in the distance.

Google Earth View of the Bluff – Lower Pilot Knob in the distance.

Google Earth is a great tool for checking out hiking routes and campsites

The only minor problem was that there’s no water nearby (not counting Beaver Creek at the bottom of the bluffs). Again checking the topo map and Google Earth, we could see a stock pond in the area, which looked like it held water year-round, which would probably do in an emergency.

Shortly after 2pm on Friday we arrived at the Coy Bald trailhead ready to start the descent down to the Long Creek crossing.

At the start of the hike we noticed someone’s either taken the Coy Bald trail sign, or it has been blown away. Whichever, the trail sign is missing.

At the campsite at the bottom of the hill we met the only people we were to see the entire weekend. A couple of hikers from Ozark and St. Louis were taking a snack break. They were on a hike from their camp by Long Creek Falls. After a short chat we carried on our way – crossing Long Creek which was flowing quite well, and then climbing up the Devil’s Den (west) Trail. The last time we hiked this route I carried a full load of water. This time we were much more sensible and only took a small amount of water in our water bottles. We would fill up once we had climbed up the Deveil’s Den trail.

Ephemeral creek by the Devil's Den Trail

Ephemeral creek by the Devil’s Den Trail

Shortly after passing the stock pond at the top of the hill we found a small ephemeral creek running beside the trail. We filtered and treated nearly 10 liters of water, enough to hopefully last us until Sunday.

It was then on across the open glades and up to the Pilot’s Trail. There we turned left towards Lower Pilot Knob, breaking new ground for us.

There’s cell phone coverage up here – we know as we got a call.

Looking for somewhere to stop for the night on the wilderness map we noticed a long flat ridge running north-west from the trail which had a forest road marked on it. We bushwhacked down and eventually met the old forest road, now just a fairly well-worn trail. We set up camp as far from the trail as we could without getting into the steep valley slopes.

The forecast was for a 30°F night, so we gathered wood for a fire to keep us from getting chilled.

In the course of the evening we spotted four satellites but no shooting stars. As it turned out the temperatures didn’t drop below freezing and in the early hours of the morning they started to rise again.

Saturday we got off to a late start and this time followed the trail back to the Pilot’s Trail. It needed a bit of Bushwhacking as it was obvious the trail we’d found was going back to the cairn at the junction of the Devil’s Den and Pilot’s trails.

Once on the Pilot’s trail, it was pretty much all down hill.

The trail behind Lower Pilot Knob doesn’t seem to be much traveled, and it was a bit overgrown in places.

As we suspected, there was a clear trail leading to the Stock pond shown on the map (and earmarked as a possible emergency water supply). There was a small cairn marking the junction which is actually a crossroads. Our first thought was that the right hand (north) trail might lead to the bluffs.

We explored the stock pond first. The water looked healthy though very brown colored, and fluffy cattails around the edge of the pond made for some nice pictures. We checked out the surrounding area, and then went back to the crossroads. The North trail only went a short distance before stopping at what appears to be a hunter’s campsite. So we bushwhacked on to the bluffs. The going was fairly easy though the catbriars (smilax) were quite thick in places.

When we got there the view from the bluffs was worth the effort.

We camped, we rested laying out in the afternoon sun, and we sat around. We sat near the edge of the bluff and watched the sun go down.

The bluff edge trees are covered in ‘Old Man’s Beard’ probably due to the moisture coming up the bluff from Beaver Creek.